RFID Toys: Cool Projects for Home, Office, and Entertainment Let's take a look at a piece of clothing — a sweatshirt, for example. The idea is that supply chains. Many companies sell alternative authentication devices and software packages for personal and corporate computers, but most dig too deep. RFID Toys: Cool Projects for Home, Office, and Entertainment. Author Information . Amal Graafstra is an entrepreneur and jack-of-many-trades. Currently involved.
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I Was So Mad RFID Toys: Cool Projects For Home, Office And Entertainment ( ExtremeTech) Amal Graafstra Ebook Download, Read Online RFID Toys: Cool. Radio frequency identification now belongs to the masses, and it lets you control all sorts of things. Like access to your front door. Or valuables in an. aracer.mobi Online Source Download and Free Ebook PDF Manual Reference Technologies have evolved and reading Rfid-toys-cool-projects-for- .
I drilled a series of holes then smoothed it out with an Exacto knife. If you drill straight in, the bit could walk up and down the slot, tearing up the plastic.
FIGURE Finished screw slots Put the cables through the cable hole, put the cover into place, and screw the cover down with the screws included with the project box.
If you feel like weatherproofing your box, get some caulking and seal up the LED indicator hole and the entire seam around the project box before you put the cover on. But as luck would have it, the Kwikset Powerbolt that I picked up at the local hardware store shown in Figure had a little extra inside that worked like a charm.
Like any other typical keyless entry deadbolt, the Kwikset Powerbolt consists of two parts. The first part is the external keypad and standard keyhole, while the other part is a large control box that sits on the inside of the door.
But it might be nice to have a lock button you can press when standing outside, rather than having to use a regular key to lock your door. Figure shows the inside, where you will find a battery pack, a simple circuit board, and a motor. The board was designed to have two switches you could press to open and close the lock from the inside. Even the top cover shown in Figure has a design that lends itself to the idea that the buttons were meant to be included, but it appears the idea was scrapped before final production.
Hacking this thing is easy as pie. Speaking as if the open button were actually there, it was designed so the deadbolt would open after the button is released, not as soon as it is pressed. That means our RFID control box relay will not open the deadbolt until the relay is switched back off, which means the deadbolt will unlock but the strike will be locked again. The goal is to allow the relay contacts in the RFID control box to close and somehow get the open button circuit to momentarily close and open again very quickly while the RFID control box relay contacts are still closed.
Accomplishing that will allow the deadbolt to unlock while keeping the electronic strike unlocked so you can walk through the door. An easy way to do this involves a 5V reed relay, a capacitor, and a resistor. Check out the circuit diagram in Figure to get an idea of how to put it together. That activates the reed relay and closes the connection for the deadbolt OPEN button circuit. The capacitor is quickly saturated and current stops flowing.
At that point, the reed relay opens, the deadbolt control board thinks the OPEN button has been released, and the deadbolt retracts. When the RFID control relay contacts finally do go back to their open state, the electronic strike locks again and the circuit powering the reed relay is broken. The 10K resistor has too high a resistance to keep the relay active once the capacitor reaches full saturation, but will allow the capacitor to discharge once the power is cut from the circuit.
If the resistor was not there, the capacitor could not discharge and would remain saturated for quite a long time, which means you could only unlock the deadbolt once every 5—10 minutes.
I know some capacitor fans out there might be annoyed. There are four solder pads, but only the two on the left side are used. The tips of the coil leads on these Radio Shack reed relays stick out the top, so you can simply trim off the coil leads from the bottom of the relay.
Then bend up the switched contact leads, making the bottom of the reed relay completely flat and void of any metal or leads. Use some hot glue to stick components onto the reed relay, like a sort of component pack mule.
Solder the positive lead from the capacitor to one of the reed relay coil post tops. Solder the resistor across the two capacitor leads. Now you should have something you can glue on to the deadbolt control board. Use hot glue to create an insulating pad on the control board and gently press the bottom of the relay down into it.
That will keep the components in place while you solder up connecting wires.
See Figure for an ideal place to put the relay and accompanying components. When the reed relay closes, it appears to the control board that the OPEN button is being pressed. The only two wires left to connect are the relay contact wires coming from the RFID control box. You can drill a hole in the deadbolt control box housing for these wires as shown in Figure To finish the deadbolt, solder one of the RFID control box relay wires to the positive terminal on the deadbolt battery pack.
Solder the other to the negative lead on the capacitor. Secure the wires with some hot glue and you should have something like Figure The basic goals that you achieve in this step are as follows: 1. Find a suitable place to put the control box. Drill a hole for cabling. Mount the RFID control box. Connect the control box to your PC. This is entirely up to you. Because every house and wall is different, the only thing I can tell you is to keep in mind that connecting wire has to run from the control box to the electric strike and to the deadbolt control box on the inside of the door if you are installing a keypad deadbolt.
The other thing to keep in mind is that you have to run external power to the strike, through the RFID control box. Check the circuit diagram in Figure to get a sneak peak at how things are connected. Just before this book went to production, I found out that Phidgets has changed the form factor of their reader boards and now they are slightly larger.
The older boards that fit perfectly into the project box may still be in stock when you go to purchase one, so your board may fit. Or you could trim off the plastic guides on the inside of the project box instead. Standard USB cables have an absolute maximum length of 16' before signal degrades and the device as well as the entire USB bus the cable connects to become unreliable. There are special powered repeater cables you can buy that can extend the USB connection another 15' or so, but typically you can only extend a USB cable once.
Extending twice or more can cause signal noise and other problems to crop up. One solution would be to get ahold of a very cheap laptop that can run at least Windows Professional.
If the laptop has a USB port, you can set it up as a dedicated access control server for your front door.
If it also has a network card, you could enable other interesting capabilities like remote control of the access server. Another possible solution involves using a very nifty little device. Keyspan www. The implications of this are amazing given the global reach of networks like the Internet.
Since Ethernet cable has a maximum length of meters about ' , it would be quite easy to run a network cable to the USB Server your RFID control box would be connected to. If the idea of using the USB Server intrigues you and you have a wireless network setup in your home, you might consider also picking up a Netgear WGE wireless bridge see Figure Something about the firmware in the device limits the number of connected devices to just one.
The two security distinctions are fail-safe and fail-secure. Most strikes are fail-secure, meaning if the system controlling the strike fails; the strike is left in the secure configuration and will not give way. Because doors are built to function with a regular strike installed, there is usually no safety reason to let the strike open in the event of a failure.
People inside a burning house for example, could always just open the door to get out, like they would any other normal door. The system controlling the strike actively holds fail-safe strikes in the secure configuration. If power to the system fails, the strike gives way, allowing the door to open even if the doorknob or latch is locked.
Chapter 2 — Getting in the Front Door Another difference in strikes is the type of power used. Because these strikes function as simple electromagnets, polarity usually does not matter.
Finally, strikes have different dimensions. Some are meant for metal doorframes while others are meant for wood.
Some have a very long base, while others are very short and compact. Another thing to keep an eye on is where the wiring comes out of the strike. Others have wiring that comes straight out of the back. Keep all this in mind when you select the correct strike for your doorframe. Step 4: Install the Electronic Strike and Deadbolt I got a pre-hung door to show how an installation might go.
I also got a friend of mine who is more carpentry savvy than I am to help. Here are the basic steps, which are explained in detail in the following sections: 1.
Install the electronic strike. Run the connecting wire as covertly as possible. Find suitable power for the electronic strike. Install the keypad deadbolt and connect it to RFID control box. Make a Hole The doorframe I picked up has a space for a standard door strike, but no strike installed. The doorframe you plan to modify should already have one, which you need to remove. You can see in Figure that the electronic strike is much larger than the pre-drilled hole that the door latch normally clicks into.
Before you start drilling or routing, make sure you take into consideration the business end of the strike. Be sure the back edge of the strike that the door latch clicks into when the door is closed is in the same place the back edge of your old strike was.
After finding the right place, use a pencil to trace the edges of the strike on the doorframe. If your wires are coming out of the top or bottom, make the hole a bit taller.
Now drill see Figure FIGURE Hole for strike You may also need to do some additional routing around the strike hole so the larger mounting plate sits flush with rest of the doorframe. Figure Out a Wiring Method There are two ways to run wires to the strike. First, you can drill a deep hole directly through the back of the doorframe into the wall space and fish the wires through the wall, or you can route a notch out of the doorframe and run them up or down the inside of the frame, sealing them in with wood epoxy.
If you drill into the wall space behind the doorframe, you must have a very long drill bit meant for that purpose. The RFID control box relay contacts simply allow that power to flow and activate the strike; it does not power the strike itself. The easiest way to power the strike is to use a typical wall socket transformer with a long power wire.
If your wall transformer is the typical type, the power wire consists of two wires with the housing connected together, just like speaker wire. Cut the tip off the end of the power wire and split the positive and negative leads into two separate wires. Just connect one of them directly to the strike.
Connect the other power source wire to one of the RFID control box relay wires. It may is up to Tumors before you was it.
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