All about Japanese sewing books, patterns, fabrics for people who can't read a word of Japanese. Free translation help for your Japanese patterns, learn. download products related to japanese sewing patterns and see what customers say about japanese DAILY CLOTHES SEWING BOOK - Japanese Pattern Book. Until I started blogging, and reading other sewing blogs, I had no idea about the popularity of Japanese sewing pattern books. Being half.
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Until I started blogging, and reading other sewing blogs, I had no idea about the popularity of Japanese sewing pattern books. Being half Japanese, I'd grown up . Feb 14, Explore mitzi bohannon's board "japanese sewing books and patterns" on Pinterest. See more ideas about Japanese sewing, Book crafts and. Mar 25, Explore Sharon Marie Madagan's board "Japanese Sewing Books and Patterns", followed by people on Pinterest. See more ideas about.
This series has been so awesome and has provided tons of invaluable information that will help you decipher these patterns. I started sewing from Japanese pattern books several years ago, and once I learned a few basics, I figured out how to muddle my way through.
I do not speak or read a bit of Japanese, so if I can do it, you can too! Before I get started, I want to offer my four main pieces of advice for sewing with Japanese patterns.
This helps me navigate the instructions a ton.
Remember the seam allowances. The standard seam allowance is 1 cm, but look for places that indicate you should add more. I always add my seam allowances in inches, since my machine has seam allowance demarcations in inches but not centimeters. The main thing is to add whatever seam allowance is easiest and makes the most sense for you, and do it consistently.
If you need help in understanding what the text says, type in what you think it might be in English and see if the Japanese characters match.
My biggest advice to you? Rely more on your own knowledge of garment construction than on specifics of the instructions.
Just trust yourself. After all, you can always use your seam ripper!
The nice thing about so many of the patterns in these books is that they are pretty simply constructed. If you want to start sewing with these patterns but are still feeling a bit unsure, definitely start with some of the more straightforward patterns- a pillowcase dress, simple top, basic pants or a skirt.
Turning to the pattern instructions on page 62, this is what you see. First things first, here is your pattern layout.
This is the money image- it tells you the order in which the skirt is constructed. Step 1: Using the layout diagram measurements, draft the skirt pieces. This is from Sanae. Since there were no images associated with step 1, I had no idea what it meant. Step 2: Prepare the skirt pieces. First fold the bottom edges up 1 cm, press, then fold up again 2 cm, and press again.
Prepare the pleats by marking the top skirt pieces as indicated and press the pleats into place. There is a graphic next to this step that shows you the measurements to use.
Following this from left to right along the top, mark the first pleat line 1. Next, there is a dark circle indicating that the distance to the next pleat line is 3 cm. Continue marking the pleats as indicated.
The hatched lines indicate that this is where you will fold the pleats. Step 3: Press and sew the pleats in place using a seam allowance of 0. Step 4: Sew the front and back skirt pieces together at the side seams, press seam allowances open. Step 5: Sew the waistband pieces together.
Notice that here there is text only in the original pictures, which refers you to step 5 on page 61, shown here. There is a 1 cm seam allowance, and notice you want to leave a 2. Now pin the waistband in place along the top of the skirt right sides together, and sew with a 1 cm seam allowance.
So the right side of the skirt faces out, and the right side of the waistband faces in. Fold the unsewn edge of the waistband piece up 1 cm and press. This would of course be done more easily before you sew the waistband on! Topstitch in place. You had folded and pressed it into place in earlier steps. Step 7: Insert elastic into the waistband. Stitch the ends together as shown. And done! You have a skirt!
I also want to point out that while I had Sanae check my translation, nearly everything I am providing below is taken using my four pieces of advice plus a little graphic studying.
Pretty familiar, right? Sew the two bias button loops from 3x3cm squares, noting the slightly curved seam line. Trim the seam allowance to 0. Using a needle and thread, flip that puppy right side out. Step 2: Sew the shoulders.
I cannot emphasize this enough. So making the L size often works for me I just have less style ease than the pattern intended but I prefer that. The last dress I made in a woven that had sleeves so the broad shoulders came into play, ended up working well when I took a smaller tuck than the pattern called for and added a bit extra seam allowance in the shoulder area.
With knits I cut the large with no seam allowances and it ends up working well with the stretch of the fabric. The exception is if I want it to turn out as a tunic top instead of a dress.
Then the length is pretty close for me. Her comment made me realize that I need to measure the actual pattern pieces and see how much ease there is. Maybe I jumped the gun in my post on Everyday Dresses , in which I complained that size L was too small for me.
So it turns out EmSewCrazy is correct about ease. Also, I have a small bust, which is a benefit for working with Japanese patterns. Thus size L may indeed be fit you quite well.
The book Basic Black by Sato Watanabe does provide finished measurements. Some of the garments are fitted and some are designed to fit more loosely. She provides measurements for the different designs.