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Like the goddess Tara Ma herself, the power of the burning ground is ambiguous and liminal, so it follows suit that the approaches to Tara Ma cover a broad devotional spectrum. Regardless of the different forms their spiritual expressions may take, all who dwell here consider themselves sincere bhaktas of the goddess Tara Ma and feel an intimate connection with her.
Fire rituals are performed throughout the night Following a dirt path that weaves through the length of the cremation ground, one comes upon a veritable hill of human ash mixed with wood and bone fragments located at the top of a ghat on the east bank of the Dwarka river. This is the funeral pyre proper: the specific area where human corpses are placed upon piles of wood which are then set alight. It is a daily occurrence at the Tarapith Mahasmashana and I have personally seen up to three pyres burning at once.
It is a ritual that affirms non-attachment to the body, which having temporarily served its purpose as a vehicle for the spirit, is now no longer needed.
When observing the activities occurring at this burning place, it becomes apparent that quite often bodies brought here are not burned. This is because a lot of the corpses arriving at Tarapith come from impoverished villagers who cannot afford the wood used to build the requisite pyres.
This sometimes results in other materials being used for fuel such as garbage and bicycle tires. However, many of these poorer people are simply not cremated, but rather interred within the hallowed ground of the Mahasmashana—buried in graves dug by the Dom with the aid of small shovels. Thus when one walks about the great cremation ground, one is in fact walking over the remains of countless bodies that have been buried here over the centuries; the entire Mahasmashana is effectively a large graveyard.
So many bodies have been buried at Tarapith that it is not uncommon to find human bones, which have been dug up by dogs, scattered throughout the Mahasmashana. Cremations at Tarapith are not gentle affairs.
The piles of wood used are often very small compared to other burning grounds I have visited—like Manikarnika Ghat. During my last week-long stay at Tarapith, every body-burning involved the corpse being laid face down on top of the pyre with the flames concentrated at its torso. The stretcher which carries the body to the burning ground is disassembled by the Dom who make use of its bamboo poles. These are not only used to tend the fire, but also to beat and break the body down, folding it in upon itself as it burns in a long and aggressive process.