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Do the same thing to the bottom of the head piece — fold and glue.
The first part, which looks like a rectangle with wings, gets its tabs folded up at the base. The section that is longer gets down again.
Here are photos of how it is folded and glued. Now glue on the white face parts to the top and bottom of the head piece, as shown below.
To do this, take your smaller rubber band size 16 — about 2. Now reach into the head, grasp the rubber band, and hook it around the other end of the same rubber band holder.
If you have difficulties grasping the rubber band, make yourself a hook out of a piece of wire as I did. Using that hook, reach into the head from the opposite side of where your rubber band is currently hooked on, grasp the end of the rubber band, and carefully hook it around the rubber band holder directly across from the first one.
This is tricky! It took me many tries to get the hang of this. Lastly, reach inside with your hook from the other side, get the rubber band, and wrap it around the last end of the rubber band holders.
At this point, you should be able to let go and the head will pop into place!
Flatten the head again, turn it over, and make sure the mechanism is sticking out. You may need to reach in with your hook and pull it out. Allow the protruding side of the mechanism to catch on the bottom, which will keep it flat.
Now drop it on your work surface. If you did it right, it will pop up!
Glue down the triangles, side reinforcement pieces, and rubber band holders, just as you did with the head pieces. Glue on the white body pieces. Pay careful attention to the arrangement of the black body pieces. Follow the same orientation as in my photos below.
Now insert and hook the size 18 rubberband into the body in the same way you did it for the head. Here is the body with the rubber band in place. Now you need to glue the head to the body. Line up the rectangles on each one so they match up, then glue.
When you glue it, center the head on the body as much as possible. Now glue the reinforcement piece onto the bottom of your penguin paper bomb, being careful it does not impede the mechanism. Check this by flattening it to make sure it all fits properly.
Glue on the orange feet so they stick out on either side of the white part of the body.
Now stand your penguin up and glue on this wings to either side of his body. I recommend you glue them on so the wings just brush the ground, as this may help him stabilize when he jumps up! Another way you can stabilize your penguin when he pops up is to put weights on the bottom.
The life boats were tough: they are difficult to shape, and additionally require short pieces of string to hang off of. The cables securing the chimneys to the deck are ordinary black string. The string is tied and glued to a pin inserted into the deck, so only the pin head is visible.
Another notice: passengers are not allowed on this deck. You may notice all my railings are uncut, instead of being hollow. Some other papercrafters actually use laser-cut railings for more realism. This is an interesting thing: how to build rope ladders ratlines.
The string is wound around this contraption, fixed with glue, and set to dry. When dried, two long ladder-like structures can be cut from the frame, forming a neat equally-spaced set of ladders tapering towards the top, precisely defined by the angle of the longitudinal lines. When you snip away the string, what remains are two ratlines on each side.
Easier said than done, this was actually the second attempt at this.